Today I'm so excited to be here in Vila Franco do Campo, San Miguel.

And today, we're going to be trying out the most delicious cupcakes, queijada de Vila Franca.

Today it's all about desserts on Maria's Portuguese Table.

(upbeat music) Before exploring Vila Franc do Campo, I thought it appropriate to learn more about the heart of every Portuguese dessert.

The complimentary cup of tea.

And boy do Azoreans know their tea.

In fact, San Miguel is the home to the oldest and at one time, the only tea plantation in all of Europe, Cha Gorreana.

(both speaking in a foreign language) (upbeat music) Tell was about Gorreana Tea.

- My sixth grandmother had orange and the orange have a disease.

So, she had to put another thing in these lands.

And in her lands she puts the tea, the high lands.

And we are here-- - Because of that.

- Because of that, because of a problem.

- So she came up with this wonderful idea of planting tea.

- Who knew, that it would be for the seventh generation.

- And a woman.

- And a woman too, see!

- And my mother is the owner.

And my grandmother was the one that take the tea plantation when my grandfather died, she was 34.

- I love it.

(light, playful music) - [Madelena] We started to pick the tea last week.

- Oh, so last week you started picking?

Beautiful.

- So, the first ones are more orange pekoe.

- Oh, they're very soft.

- Very soft.

Because we make the tea by orthodox way.

Orthodox way, it's a very expensive way to do tea, but it's the way I can beat them, because I'm too little.

- Oh - So, I have to make good tea.

- Yes.

- Here comes the orange pekoe.

But if you touch in this one, - It's a little bit, a little bit.

- So this is the blue bag that you like.

- Ah, stronger!

Okay, as well as the leaf.

- As well as the leaf.

- She's young, but she's-- - She's tougher than this one.

- Not like this one.

- This one is more delicate.

- And then we have a third leaf, very, very hard.

It's this one, it's a old leaf and it's very, very light.

(light guitar music) - It's just beautiful you know, the smell is great.

Seeing the blue ocean right off of here with the cliffs.

The blue, the green, just the surroundings and to know the history behind it all is it makes it even more special.

We, the Portuguese, introduced tea time to the world.

- Yes, it's true.

- It is us, it is not the English folks.

- [Madelena] Catherina de Braganza.

- Who married King Charles the, I can't remember the number now.

And part of her dowry was not only a trunk of loose leaf teas.

And when the queen came to court.

They were drinking wine because the water was bad.

And then she's like "I'm not drinking wine, I'm used to drinking my tea at four O'clock in the afternoon".

And that is what her court did at four O'clock.

They would have tea.

And in English society high tea meant you were wealthy, you were part of that Elite group.

And but guess what guys?

The Elite group started from us.

(laughing) From us, right here baby, right here.

(bright upbeat music) Once you step into Cha Gorreana's Tea factory.

You step back into time.

To the 1800s, surrounded by hand made machines that are just as old.

We are lucky enough to be here during harvest.

So we're able to see the process from start to finish.

The aromas are inviting and the work that goes into it is fascinating.

Mostly everything is still all done by hand.

And completely organic.

(bright, upbeat music) So here we are, We're having some tea.

Now, what tea are we having today?

- Green tea.

- Oh green tea!

- Because I know you like green tea.

- It's my favorite, It's my favorite!

So, we're having some green tea and it's loose leaf.

- Loose leaf.

- Loose leaf tea.

- It is a little bit strong, I have this problem, I always make very strong tea.

Because I like very strong tea.

(laughing) (both speaking in foreign language) (beep) (speaking in foreign language) - It's so strong!

(speaking in foreign language) What is a good thing to serve with tea?

What do you recommend?

I know growing up it was biscoits.

It was biscoits for everything.

- Here in Maia they eat with Chicharros.

Chicharros with tea.

- No.

- And I always did that.

- Black tea, with fried fish!

And that's the horse mackerel.

(both speaking in foreign language) Oh, my goodness, I never heard that.

- So they put a little bit of milk, tea and sugar, lots of sugar.

So it give energy.

- Oh, for the day.

- For the day.

And I remember when I was a child, the men would come with a bottle, very, very strong tea with a little of milk and too much sugar.

It was energy.

- It was energy, a sugar high.

You were on a sugar rush.

- Tea is a drink that all the societies drink.

- Correct.

It isn't just, it's not just the high society.

In the Azores it was not.

Because my family has been drinking Gorreana tea for centuries.

Cha Gorreana is indeed the oldest tea plantation in all of Europe.

But fortunately for visitors to the island of San Miguel it's not the only tea plantation in the area.

Just down the coast from Cha Gorreana is another family owned tea plantation.

Cha Porto Formoso.

To use the word quaint doesn't do Port Frumosu justice.

The plantation sits on the hills above the village, offering beautiful views everywhere you look.

And inside the tasting room you get to re-affirm the notion that this region offers some of the finest tasting teas in the world.

I would like traditional tea and do you have biscoits?

Biscoits de Manteiga?

- Yes, we do, yes, we have.

- Okay, I will have that.

(teapots clinking) And this is the Black tea.

- [Waiter] Yeah, this is a soft tea, the broken leaf.

- The broken leaf.

- Okay, and your biscuits.

- Oh, so adorable!

I have to have it with a biscuit because this is the very traditional way.

Biscoits de Manteiga.

And that is biscuits made with butter.

Later today, I'm gonna be teaching you how to make this recipe.

I can't wait to show you 'cause you're gonna be able to enjoy tea with the biscuits as I am here right now.

(bright, upbeat music) We're here in a local kitchen with my friend, Jose.

And we are going to make a very typical desert.

And that's called biscoits.

Growing up, I had it in my home all the time.

Every cookie jar was not filled with cookies, it was filled with biscoits.

And biscoits are biscuits.

Today, we're doing a very basic one.

A basic one with butter.

So, biscoits de Manteiga.

(speaking in foreign language) (light, bright music) (speaking in foreign language) Just with the, the flour and sugar.

That's the baking powder.

I forget how you know, I used to watch my grandmother make this and you know, there was no mixing spoon.

This was her mixing spoon.

Was her hands, which is you know, a wonderful thing.

(both speaking in foreign language) That was the lard added in.

You're gonna be, Oh, Okay.

So you have kosher salt but you're gonna put the warm milk.

Just melt the salt in the milk.

(both speaking in foreign language) Okay, so this way, you don't want little granules of the salt coming in at different parts where one part of the biscuit might be saltier than the other.

So this evens it all out.

Oh, very nice.

(both speaking in foreign language) And as you can see the lard, it was melted lard.

Because lard can stay out, you do not have to refrigerate it, folks.

When you have lard, you can keep that on your counter.

And then you can use it for your frying, for your baking, for your cooking.

This is what our grandparents used, and you know what?

They lived 'til 90 something years old.

So, there's no excuse folks, try it with the lard.

Don't be afraid.

Oh, beautiful!

Once the dough starts getting a little sticky and they get sticky on the hands.

You need to put out a little bit of flour so that you can, (both speaking in foreign language) So, that when your kneading it you can add that on there and that'll make it easier for it to work the dough.

(both speaking in foreign language) Yeah it's not as sticky now.

And that was just (speaking in foreign language) (speaking in foreign language) It was just a little bit more flour it needed.

(speaking in foreign language) Oh okay so now, it's up to you.

You can make it the way you want it.

He likes it nice and thin, a little delicate.

(both speaking in foreign language) I like them a little bit chubbier.

(Spanish guitar music) You know I have wonderful memories of this.

I'm having all these wonderful memories right now.

And it would be you know, my mom or my grandmother making this and they would give us dough to roll for them.

And just to keep us kind of quiet and then entertained.

(upbeat Spanish guitar music) (speaks in foreign language) (laughing) (both speaking in foreign language) For the smaller pieces that you have there, like the trying to squeeze them in one and then twist it around.

I Like that.

(both speaking in foreign language) Oh, look at that, that's so cute!

Look at that!

Beautiful.

(speaks in foreign language) I've never seen them before like at.

You know, I've always seen it you know, the round and I have to tell you, when my mom would make this.

And she would get tired of doing it and if we lost already you know, we didn't wanna do it anymore and help her out.

She would just take the dough at this point and just make one little, and that would be it!

(speaks in foreign language) (laughing) He says it's too big, he's not letting me do it!

(laughing) There it is, so now folks, we've got the two trays.

And we're gonna be putting them in the oven.

We're gonna get these, now it's time for the biscuits.

Oh.

These are beautiful and I'm gonna just take these down for now.

(both speaking in foreign language) He didn't wait for me.

Let's try these.

It is crunchy, it's (speaking in foreign language) Again, you can taste that butter in it, it comes through.

It's not too sweet and this is like memories.

Great memories right here.

My childhood memories just all came back in one bite.

And for that I'm going to enjoy.

There are countless family recipes when it comes to biscuits, including the one in my cook book.

A recipe I was handed down by my mom and made almost every week.

So that we could enjoy it with our tea at the end of the day.

(bright, upbeat music) The village of Vila Franca do Campo is a sea side town with a marina and accessible beaches.

And uninterrupted views of the mighty Atlantic.

Located 15 miles east of Ponta Delgada on the south coast lies the former capital of the Azores, Vila Franca do Compo.

Which lost it's status of capital to Ponta Delgada after it had been almost been completely destroyed by a disastrous earthquake in 1522.

I am here at Nossa Senora de Paz which is Our Lady of Peace, and it's a chapel.

The chapel oversees the village of Vila Franca.

And what these steps that lead up to it, is steps of prayer, of meditation and so with each step that you go up, you say a prayer.

You look around, you take a deep breath, and you take it all in.

And then once you get to the very top.

You'll get to see this most beautiful view of the village.

So come along with me as we go up those stairs.

(bright, upbeat music) As I climb up the stair case, I am reminded that each step is set up for a prayer or meditation.

The steps separate into ten flights as to symbolize and coordinate with the praying of the rosary.

It's a grand view of Vila Franca do Campo.

Something to behold, in this beauty in peace, I am grateful to be here close to my roots.

Close to my home.

We are here folks, we are here in Vila Franca.

And in Vila Franca, you have to try the Queijada de Vila Franca do Morgado.

It is an original secret recipe of a cupcake.

And one you must try when you're here.

Let's go in.

Queijada de Vila Franca Do Morgado is a family owned bakery that makes hands down, the best queijada on the island.

Senor Do Morgado has handed over his day to day operations to his youngest daughter, Rita.

- Good to see you.

It's your second home.

- It's a second home!

I love everyone here.

- They have lots of things to show you, new things here.

- I know this is from the last time, you've made it bigger.

And I can't wait to see it.

- You will see, it's like many things.

- I can have - I will show you everything.

- You're gonna show me everything?

- Yes.

- I will put you to work, at work.

- She's gonna put me to work, I have to work for my pay check.

(bright upbeat music) Oh my goodness, that's plentiful.

Ola, senhoras!

Está tudo bem?

This looks amazing.

Oh my, so what are we doing here?

- We are stretching the dough, for preparing to filling.

- Oh, okay.

- They put flour to help a little bit not stick to the hands because you see the dough is a little bit sticky.

And now they use a little of the dough and they help to, you see.

- Oh, to push in down to the mold.

Every single one, they're pushing it down using dough on dough.

- Yes, it's not easy because you don't want it broke.

- [Maria] And your hands aren't touching it.

- [Rita] Yes, you put a little bit more flour and go again.

- Go again.

Any time for any baking like this, it's a work of art.

Baking is a work of art too!

And it's love.

And it's a lot of love.

(speaks in foreign language) Yes, look at that, beautiful.

- This, we can show we have this machine that helps to put the filling inside of every single one of the tarts.

See, old times, we filled by hand.

- Oh, wow!

- Every single one, yes, it takes too much time, so now we are using this kind of machine to help.

- And everything is uniformed.

Everything comes out at the same amount.

So there's no chance of one getting a big queijada and one a little tiny one.

- It sometimes happens.

- Oh, I think they're perfect.

- It's hand made.

- It is hand made!

This is just incredible.

- And now you can have this cart that helps a lot and in old time we put six-- - [Maria] Six trays in the older one.

- Now we can take 11 or 15.

- Up to 15?

- Yes.

- So there you go!

I can't, I can't, I'm just overwhelmed by it all.

And it smells so wonderful in here.

And I really, I am dying, oh, they're taking them out of the oven right now.

They're taking some out of the oven.

Then the next step is?

- Remove them.

- Okay.

- Now they need to rest, to cool - Oh, how Long do they rest?

- Depends of the weather, it has to be cold.

To put the sugar and wrap.

Now we remove, put in this box to help to get cooler.

(speaks in foreign language) It's still a little warm.

I'm sneaking it guys!

'Cause this is my favorite, it's warm.

(upbeat music) - It's delicious!

(speaking in foreign language) (light guitar music) So, let's taste, in the last one!

- The last one.

before you're gonna put me to work.

- Yes, of course.

- Okay, and the last one is?

- Wrapping, putting icing sugar on the top and wrapping every single one by hand.

- Oh my, okay let's do it!

Let's do this.

(speaking in foreign language) Ola!

Ola!

- That lady is a machine.

- This is, I have to tell you.

- The oldest one, the oldest one.

- This woman right here, her name is Maria de Deus and for those that know me personally, my name is Maria de Deus.

And so when we first met.

(speaks in foreign language) And she said " What is your name?"

And I told her Maria de Deus and she said "my name is Maria de Deus So from then on, we said (speaking in foreign language) we're cousins.

And she has been here the longest and she is a machine when it comes to making this and wrapping it by hand.

So of course she is, she's Senhora Maria de Deus (speaks in foreign language) - Little bit to the middle.

(speaking in foreign language) - [Maria] One corner, yes.

- And there you go!

You can work here.

(cheering) (speaks in foreign language) Almost a box of six.

- Almost a box of six.

Oh my, oh my, oh my.

Seis!

- And you finished your box!

- All the ladies are in the back watching me do this.

And they're all cheering me on and giving me thumbs up because I did it!

- See, You finished.

- There's my first box of six that I put together myself.

Yay!

- [Rita] 90% of the products that make this cake is from here, is from the region.

The eggs, the milk, the butter, the flour, everything.

(bright, upbeat music) - So the thing is, I tease them all the time about the secret recipe, I get two cups of sugar.

And so-- - Lots of love.

- Lots of love.

(laughing) - I love it.

But the thing is even if you had the recipe, folks, even if you had it, you would not be able to recreate it.

For the simple fact that the ingredients are local ingredients that are produced here in a volcanic island and it's incredible.

- [Rita] Oh, and I have a present for you.

- Oh, thank you, for me to enjoy later.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

Your so sweet!

(kissing) Thank you!

(bright, light music)